STSC are proud to be working with these eco-sericulture specialists to produce our GOTS organic Peace Silk. STSC have worked with this sericulture coop and mill for more than 10 years and consider the silks to possibly be the world’s most sustainable and ethical luxury fabrics.
Clients will be issued with the following Certifications and logos to use for PR and marketing along with photographs and information below to help educate customers on the unique non-toxic and ethical status setting this silk apart from "regular" silk that is toxic and causes hazardous chemical impact to the environment and the workers.
Note even when mills state they are "organic" this is usually only related to using organic pesticides on the trees but is still using non-organic, harmful chemical in the de-gumming process which is where it has grave effects on the workers health resulting in black fingers and nostrils from breathing in toxic chemicals to degum the cocoons. Read further details below.
SILK AND SILK BLENDS
Fibres spun after the silk moth has naturally escaped from the cocoon are known collectively as "Peace Silk", similar to the Ahimsa silk promoted by Mahatma Gandhi. Our Silk yarn made of short lengths of silk obtained from silk wastes, pierced cocoons or floss which gives yarn its characteristic brilliance. These silks are spun on special machinery which in some ways is akin to cotton, as it can not be reeled. We source our silk from India where it is known as Ahimsa Silk or Peace Silk a non-violent silk or cruelty free silk. Central to our belief system, we are opposed to “regular” silk where the silkworm is boiled alive and toxic chemicals are used to de-gum the cocoon, our suppliers have created a modern form of rural cooperation where it’s important to them that they treat the silk worms, themselves, their community and their environment with utmost care.
By working as a co-op, the production is cleverly decentralized to allow the silk farmers, spinners, weavers etc. to work directly from their own areas. The different units of cocoons, yarns and ready textiles are then connected and stored at a centralized headquarters.
THE PEOPLE
The co-op follows a corporate social responsibility platform, where sustainable utilisation of manpower, ecology and natural resources work together. The living standards of the project members are higher, where the weavers have a comfortable lifestyle and their children are attending local schools. The women in the group are able to adapt their new professional skills allowing for social and economic self-dependency.
THE ENVIRONMENT
There are zero pesticides or genetic sprays used on the leaves or host mulberry trees feeding the worms which often creates a double crop. To create biodiversity, they have cultivated rice and potato along with the mulberry host trees. Ecologically, the entire region appears significantly greener than previous times.
During the silk farming stage, where they rear silkworms to produce silk, this occurs mainly in free nature and in some cases, indoors. To keep silkworms safe from harmful insects or birds, large mosquito netting is attached to protect each tree where the silkworms live and breed. In some cases, a Bio-Spray may be used.
REGENERATIVE FARMING
Regenerative fashion refers to apparels that consumes raw material from agriculture, which relies on minimum soil disturbance with reduced use of external inputs with a goal of soil-to-soil cycling. Regenerative practices support carbon sequestration, improve soil and watershed quality, and enhance biodiversity. The use of organic fibres in the products is one example of regenerative fashion. Regenerative practices heal or restore the damage, conventional techniques of producing fabric have done to the environment.
There are several approaches of regenerative agriculture. Planting perennial crops to prevent soil erosion is one example as they can tolerate adverse weather conditions better than annual crops and sequester more carbon underground and helps in decarbonization for long-run. The limited or reduced use of chemicals in the field are encouraged by integrated regenerative practices of pest control by its biological agents or application of biofertilizers.
These practices not only reduce cost of input use but also enhance biodiversity at farm to landscape scale, enabling predators of nature to manage pests and weeds while raising pollinator populations inhabiting farms. Regenerative agriculture offers enormous advantages to our biodiversity.
SERICULTURE / SILK FARMING
Once the cocoons are ready, they are placed indoors on a bamboo platform. In case of Tussar silk, the cocoons are hung vertically from the ceiling using jute strings. In approximately one week, silk butterflies (moths) hatch out themselves or in some cases the cocoons need to be pierced by well-trained staff to assist the moth. Each cocoon is checked that its empty and is then forwarded to the degumming department. That is why the silk is known as Peace silk.
PRODUCTION
The process of eliminating “Gum (sericin)” and impurities from raw silk is known as degumming of silk. This is done by adding natural bio soap in the hot boiling water. Occasionally hydrogen peroxide is used to make different shades 3 of silk yarn uniform. Note, in 'regular' mills, this process is known to be highly toxic for the workers and health implications for staff impact is high unless the mill shows specific Certification to prove otherwise such as GOTS and WFTO.
CERTIFICATION
In commercial “regular” silk, toxic metals such as Chromium, Barium, Lead, Iron or Sodium magnesium are used during the degumming process of ´silk- weighting´ to make silk yarns heavier. These chemicals are not used or permitted in our production.
Four out of our twenty power looms have been upgraded with solar powered motors. Spinning and reeling is processed either manually or with solar machines. This makes 70% of our spinning and weaving operation zero-carbon. Packing and storing of the product is mainly done with jute bags or reclaimed cardboards. Transport of cocoons or ready yarns to weavers in different areas is done by public transport state roadways or Indian railway.
Water usage is minimised in our production process with reclaiming used water by filtering the old used water. Residue from cocoon degumming is used as compost for agriculture.
The WFTO is the international umbrella organization for fair trade organizations in around 70 countries on all continents. It is the only global network made up of actors along the entire fair trade value chain - from production to sales. Most of the approximately 400 members are organizations that mainly deal in handicraft products. Until 2008 the WFTO was still called IFAT - The International Fair-Trade Association, then it was renamed to its current name. WFTO members always meet fair trade standards.
The aim of the WFTO is to improve the living conditions of disadvantaged producers by improving their market opportunities. At the same time, the WFTO tries to exert influence on a political level in order to change trading conditions in the long term.
A monitoring system for the members that combines internal and external controls increases the transparency and credibility of the fair-trade organizations.
The monitoring system is based on the 10 fair trade standards of the WFTO:
An opportunity for economically disadvantaged producers
Transparency and accountability
Trading practices
Pay a fair price
Child labor and forced labor excluded
Non-Discrimination, Equal Rights and Freedom of Association
Better working conditions
Promotion of skills / further training
Promotion of fair trade
environmental Protection
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is an internationally recognised organic textile standard. Since its introduction in 2006, GOTS has demonstrated its practical feasibility and is supported by the growth in consumption of organic fibres and the demand for a unified processing criteria from the industry and retail sectors.
GOTS ensures the organic status of textiles from the harvesting of the raw materials through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing all the way to labelling, in order to provide credible assurances to the consumer. The standard covers the processing, manufacturing, packaging, labelling, trading and distribution of all textiles made from at least 70 percent certified organic natural fibres. The final fibre products may include, but are not limited to, yarns, fabrics, clothes and home textiles.
The Ministries of Industries and Commerce, Government of India has implemented the National Programme for Organic Production (NPOP) to provide a focused and well-directed development of organic agriculture and quality products. This national programme proposes for the promotion of organic farming and provides an institutional mechanism for the implementation of National Standards for Organic Production and provides information on systems, criteria and procedure for accreditation of Inspection and certification bodies, the national organic logo.